| 8th Oct 09 : Rishikesh |
 The day began with an early breakfast in Haridwar. There was an air of seriousness about the day to come at breakfast, however Swamiji and Amma kept us all in a light hearted mood and in good spirits. Amma and Swamiji were each donning their traditional sadhu clothing. Amma wore an orange dhoti with her electric purple shawl and Swamiji had on a traditional beige shirt and a salmon colored dhoti. Today the group was traveling to Rishikesh and the foremost priority was to hold a puja on the banks of the Ganges. Before leaving our rooms, Amma and Swamiji applied sandalwood and kumkum on everyone's forehead. The road to Rishikesh offered some welcomed changes. We were gaining in altitude, the hill towns and forests and mountain airs greeted us as our driver, Raj, tackled the steepening slopes. We were quietly cruising along, absorbed in our own thoughts when our vehicle came to a screeching halt at a barricade, stirring up a cloud of dust. Our driver reached into the glove box and hopped out walking towards some sort of official checkpoint or post. Amma questioned Venkat as to why we had stopped. Venkat or Amalananda, who has the most local knowledge among the group, smiled and assured us that this is a very routine stop. Apparently larger vehicles and groups of pilgrims must show their "credentials" at the official checkpoints that scatter the Himalayan foothill region. Usually an approved vehicle inspection form will grant you passage-along with a few hundred rupees. Venkat informed us of this unspoken, but customary exchange, and our driver reentered the car, we exchanged knowing smiles and we were off in no time.  Within two hours time we checked into our rooms and were back into the streets of Rishikesh. Raj skillfully navigated crowded markets and obstacles, including buses full to the brim with passengers, shopkeepers with mobile food stalls, large and docile cows minding their own business, red-faced monkeys causing roadside mischief and motorbikes carrying families of six. We were dropped off a few blocks away from Triveni Ghat (bank). This is an extremely auspicious place. This is the location of the convergence of the Ganges, Saraswati and Yamuna rivers. As a band of sadhus we set off carrying all the supplies necessary for the day's puja.Once we arrived at the ghat, with the early afternoon sun beating down, we found no immediate places appropriate for a puja for the deities. Swami and Amma walked up and down the bank seeing litter and some locals taking their daily baths. The opposite bank of the river was pristine and we longed to hold the ceremony there. However we had no way of crossing and were almost ready to settle on an unsatisfactory spot. Just then, in a moment of inspiration, Venkat saw a boat docked a few hundred yards away. Telling us all that he had  an idea he set off to inquire about the boat's owner. Five minutes later he came back with a frown and told us all that the boat belonged to some government officials and was restricted to be used only for government business. They also added that Elephants "frequent" the other side of the river and were pretty aggressive. Raghudasa asked Venkat to try again, thinking that perhaps some persistence might help the situation. On the ghat, while Venkat talked nicely to the men in Hindi, Raghudasa, not understanding a word, just smiled and nodded for the 10 minute exchange. Venkat turning to the group said that the men would take us all across to the opposite bank-for a few hundred rupees of course. Later it would be revealed that the men have constant offers to rent and borrow their boat for several times what we had offered. They said they felt something "special" about the group and agreed to assist us in our prayers. The divine surely opened the gate.Seven of us packed into the boat and in a moment we were across the Ganges to a private bank. Our two new friends expressed that they would have to leave us at the bank to attend to some other business, but promised to return in a few hours time. Swami and Amma agreed and we set up for the puja as they snaked back across the river. They left only their wake and their word to pick us up for our return journey. No need to worry when you leave things like this in the Mother's hands. We all admired the place where we had landed. What Grace! Everyone took a dip in the river to purify themselves, Swami and Amma held the intentions of all who have sent in their prayers during their dips. The river was moving quite swiftly, and the banks dropped off very deeply, so we used Swami's walking stick as our safety rope as someone on the bank held the stick while the person in the water gripped on for support. It was quite a scene, with all of us in traditional dress. Both Greg and Avinash looked the spitting image of ancient rishi's with their dhotis, long hair, and smeared holy ash. The puja was enchanting-all of us on our private beach on the Ganges, offering prayers to the Divine Mother and Mahavatar Babaji, with the backdrop of a sunlit forest, and the foreground of the Triveni Ghat and the mountainous region. All this and the threat of being visited by an aggressive Elephant nonetheless! This ceremony was very special for a number of reasons. It was the first dip in the Ganges for Swamiji and Amma, and they did so on behalf of everyone who has been touched by Ekatvam, for spiritual purification and evolution. This was also a ceremony representing Swamiji and Amma taking Sannyasi deeksha.  With light hearts and warm smiles after a few hours time we left our paradise-found on the banks of the Ganges and took our official government business escort back to the Triveni ghat. Exchanging pleasantries and warm gratitude to our new friends Amma led the way back into the streets. Our traditionally dressed group was attracting many curious looks from the bazaar and markets of the crowded streets. Everyone in the group fell silent in the car and slipped into a short meditation. Our driver took us to Ram and Lakshman Jhula (bridge) both of which are suspension bridges about 400 feet long, connecting the opposite sides of the Ganga. Amma stepped out of the car barefoot and silently began walking off into the streets. Wrapped in her shawl, she carried her stick, and brass pot of blessed river water. Swami followed just after- and the rest of the group, looking at each other for some explanation, were left with only their looks- and took off to follow. Swami and Amma walked silently through the streets and approached the footbridge of Laxman Jhula. The bridge offers expansive views of Rishikesh, its many ghats, the Ganges and the towering hills above. This footbridge was more of an expressway. Amma and Swami moved through the crowd, avoiding motorbikes, buffalo, monkeys and throngs of people posing for pictures from the bridge. The opposite side of town offered intricate handmade crafts and spiritual attire and Carla, Greg and Avinash were looking into some of the storefronts. Amma and Swami, both silent, continued to push forward, leaving Amalananda and Raghudasananda trailing just behind. Soon the group had passed the section of storefronts and the crowds had dissolved. All were left in their thoughts walking through the forest road at dusk. Amalananda and Raghudas were walking quietly, taking in all of the sights, sounds and smells. Amma led the way barefoot, not showing  any signs of slowing down. We passed many mules and cows sitting quietly on the sides of the road, monkeys howling in the trees, several street vendors with smoke billowing from their carts selling handmade snacks. A few cars and bikes noisily buzzed by, sounding their horns loudly in the evening air. We were allowed to walk side by side at the Mother's pace to contemplate the day's activities. Soon Carla, Greg and Avinash joined on this forest walk and slipped into their own thoughts. Suddenly Greg, having stayed in Rishikesh before, mentioned that the Ganga Aarti was beginning shortly. Amma and Swami said that we should definitely all go and to hurry so not to miss it. We arrived at the ghat of the Parmarth Niketan ashram which does a nightly Aarti. This ghat looks out onto a 10 foot stone sculpture of Shiva sitting in meditation that is suspended above the Ganges on a marble bridge and is a great sight of spiritual inspiration. There was already a large group gathered there to join the Aarti. There was a fire ceremony and some bhajans beforehand. During this time out group managed to find a nice place to view the Aarti from just alongside the river at the top of some steps. A group of about 7 Indian women in colorful saris sat just in front of us. They kept glancing back over their shoulders at Amma. After a few minutes of looks, Amma waved for them to approach. Each woman, with expressions of great calmness and reverence, received in their palm the blessed water that Amma had so diligently carried in her brass pot during the forest walk. They said their pranams and again sat to join the bhajans. The music slowly quieted and the spotlights dimmed. The Aarti began and silver plates with lit camphor were passed around to group that gathered. Eventually one of these plates made its way into Swami's hands. He offered prayers to the Mother Ganges and passed the plate to each of us in the group to do the same. Noticeably, Greg was missing at this moment. Raghudasa went to look for him and saw him come hurrying back to the our group with an Ashram organizer closely following, carrying a huge lit 4-tiered Aarti. The flames were enchanting. Greg explained that he told the man that his "Ma was here" and to come bring the Aarti. Something in the man stirried him to pass the Aarti to Amma. She waved the large Aarti in the air towards the river, at this point attracting a few people from the crowd. Soon there was a small group of strangers surrounding Amma and after finishing her prayers to the Mother Ganges, she exclaimed "Jai Sri Mata Gangaji, Ki" and that followed with the resounding response from the group "Jai!!!" Everyone took blessings and soon the crowd dispersed and the flames extinguished.  Swami and Amma suggested that we all end this most amazing day with a meditation on the steps just above the rushing river. All in the group were greatly excited to sit and meditate facing the Ganges. Quiet and peace soon ensued. After about a half an hour Swami and Amma came out of their meditation, and asked Amalananda to bring something from the market. He returned with a basket of about a dozen flower offerings. These Ganges packets are handmade palm leaf boats that hold flowers and incense sticks and lit camphor flames. They are meant to be lit and placed into the moving water. The significance and purpose of this is to wash away ones impurities and to take their wishes down the river to be granted by the Divine. It was now total darkness on the ghat and Swamiji and Amma lit each offering and placed them into the Ganges, offering prayers for everyone, and in particular, for all the people who had sent in their prayers and intentions to Ekatvam. Each of these lighted flower floats was offered for the individuals who helped to support and make this Yatra possible. May we all be blessed! |
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