| 4 - 6 Nov : Kumbakonam, Mother's abode and Babaji's guidance |
 We all awoke early on the 4th, eager to check out of our staying quarters. We will aptly call our lodge “Bug City.” Needless to say, after an endless night full of an onslaught from mosquitoes and other unidentified disturbances we were ready to move out. The group took breakfast and went to the temple in town, giving thanks that we survived the night. As rainy season in South India is in full swing, it poured all day and every newspaper stand had headlines of flooding in nearby regions. Amma and Swami would not let the weather control the pilgrimage and happily visited three major temples on the way to a small village nestled in the jungle, called Kumbakonam. This is very special place for several reasons. The main reason for the visit here is because of the significance of this area with Mother Pratyangira’s energies. Swamiji and Amma have visited the Mother here before, and told our group about the importance of this place.  It is said that in the third, Dwarpara Yuga, Mother Pratyangira appeared in this village. Near the end of the epic Ramayana, there was a Homa being planned by Ravana. This Homa was done to Mother Pratyangira, and with her boon, the performer of the ceremony would be invincible to his foes. Hanuman, Ram’s great devotee, spied on this plan by Ravana and managed to intercept the boon given at the end of the Homa. The reason that Ram was able to rescue Sita and defeat Ravana, was because of the blessings of the Mother. With such a storied site, we were all eager to visit the Mother’s temple. First, however, we planned to visit another renowned temple nearby. Under the guidance of Mahavatar Babaji, Swami and Amma were directed to visit and pray in the 6 abodes of Lord Murugan (a son of Shiva). Each of these six temples is dedicated to Murugan. His energies are closely associated with Babaji, some people see no distinction between them. A great set of stairs led to the main temple, which leaves one out of breath at about midway. We were relieved to reach the top of the stone steps and immediately felt the energies of this place. There was an airy quietness that left one feeling thoughtless and free. We followed suspended trays of candles throughout the temple, which guided our way to Murgugan’s sanctum. The main sanctum felt tremendously Divine and a sweet floral scent immediately captivated all of us. The main priest ushered our group in the inner sanctum and performed the prayers for everyone. We were given prasads of holy ash and each of us were garlanded with a string of flowers that had adorned Murugan’s shoulders. It was a great blessing and was one the first of the six abodes that we were to visit.  This temple sits in a small village called Swamymalai, only ten minutes from Kumbakonam. This village is simple but is widely known in India and around the world as one of the foremost places of bronze and metal sculptors. For generations, great familes of sculptors have made this village the home of their craft. As Babaji has guided the group to get blessings from the temple here, it is also through His guidance, that Amma and Swami have come here to have His idol constructed. We were directed to go to a place called Stapathy & Sons. Inside, awards of recognition and photographs of ceremonies filled the walls. Not wanting to act in haste, or to be drawn only to the place because of awards, Swami and Amma first wanted to speak with the sculptors and be sure the energies were aligned properly. The eldest Son, said his pranams to each of us and began a conversation. Soon, Amma brought out a beautiful image of Mahavatar Babaji, that was gifted to us in Badrinath, in the Himalayas. For a few moments the eldest son stood there breathless.  He began to tell us a story that surprised each one of us. Only 2 months before our visit, this man was visited by an American, who entered the front of his bronze shop. This mysterious American, had no interest in any of the statues or idols in the place, he merely sat with our sculptor and chanted “Om” for fifteen minutes. The sculptor thought a bit out of the ordinary at first, but was open to whatever was happening in that moment. After the dreamlike fifteen minutes the American told the craftsman that a picture of Babaji would arrive in his hands. 2 months later this prophecy came true and the picture was delivered by Swami and Amma, totally unaware of this prediction!In that moment, a huge relief was felt by all in our group. The Divine guidance of Babaji, had brought us to this sculptor for a reason and there was a certainty and contentment leaving the project in his hands. Immediately, Swami, Amma and the sculptor began to draw up plans for the statue of Baba. After making the arrangements for the idol of Mahavatar Babaji, the sculptor had to attend to some other business and left us in the hands of a younger Stapathy Son. He gave us a full-fledged tour of the bronze studio and warehouse. We were very impressed to see many complex and detailed works-in-progress in this award winning shop.  We soon left the shopkeeper who was happy to begin his Divinely “approved” project and headed to the famous Praytangira Temple. The Mother’s temple here is pure and simple. There are no great frills or attractions for “special” darshan. It is constructed directly on the site of the story from the Ramayana, described earlier. Both purity and simplicity seem to be the common themes of many of the more remarkable places that have been visited on this journey. We entered the temple here and found the Mother in a dim, ancient stone sanctum, glowing from the candlelight. Pieces of gold reflected the flame’s light over the Mother’s eyes and highlighted her sharp, pointed teeth. It was a simple altar, but the feeling of Grace makes this such a special place.Swamiji and Amma sat with the son of the main priest, who they have come to know over the years. He mentioned that there was a private Homa being performed the next morning and that we should attend. Again, the Mother seemed to be arranging all the plans for Her children. Swami accepted the invite and we left, looking forward to the next day. Leaving the temple’s office, which is also the priest’s family home, we were greeted by a three year old, partially nude, village boy. He giggled and ran circles around our group. His laughter was infectious and we happily escaped the rain in our driver’s jeep. Before returning back to our lodge for the night, we visited the eighth temple out of the twelve Jothilinga temples dedicated to Lord Shiva (Kedarnath is also one of these temples). Each of the 12 lingams have naturally formed, making their energies very potent. This temple is especially notable, because the Mother has also naturally taken her form here. Both Shiva and Shakti have revealed themselves, appearing unaided, in nature. Upon entering this temple, a young Brahmin priest soulfully sang Sanskrit verses into a microphone. These haunting sounds echoed throughout the temple and left us all in a sublime and devotional mood. The Mother’s sanctum here is very intense. Amma sang songs to the natural stone figure of the Divine Mother. They too echoed off of the granite walls. Inside the sanctum a rectangular portion of the wall was missing, revealing the night’s sky. This hole was in place because during a full moon, it passes directly over and showers twilight onto the stone figure of the Mother. It was a very special sanctum and we felt the infectious bliss that spurred from Amma’s songs. Swami suggested that we meditate and we all sat for sometime before leaving and driving to our lodge for the night. We rose early on the morning of the 6th and took a very light breakfast. We were immediately met by the son of the head priest who was busy preparing for the Homa. He asked us to feel free to walk about the temple and after doing this, he invited us outside to the Homa pit.  It was a great brick pit, about 4 feet deep, which sits directly in front of Mother Pratyangira’s sanctum. There were 8 Brahmin priests there to perform the ceremony, which mirrored with the 8 of us there to witness. They began the morning with an Archana (offering of flowers) to the Mother. There were over a dozen silver platters of flower petals and they used them all as they recited mantras for over an hour. Their harmonious chanting bounced off the temple walls and rang out into the surrounding jungle. Soon, many more platters were brought out to the pit. There were hundreds of different herbs, more flowers, cut fruits (including the Mother’s favorite Pomegranate), pots of cooked rice Prasad and also several plates of red chilies. More mantras were recited and then the head priest lit some herbs and smoke billowed from deep inside the pit. The priests alternated taking the lead with reciting the mantras and heartfully presented the different offerings to the Mother within the rising flames. Over the course of the Homa, the flames rose to over 12 feet high. They reached the crescendo of their heights after a Silk Saree was soaked in ghee and added to the fire. The flames roared and danced about, as if pleased with the offering. The priests had to rise and move away from the fire as it became very hot. Still chanting they offered the chilies and then finally the flowers, on a finishing note. Almost on cue, the fire quieted down. We were then all invited to walk around the pit three times as a blessing and to submit our intentions and prayers to the Devi. The heat was intense as we walked around the pit, Raghudas, mentioned to the group that he was having a flashback of the Firewalking ceremony and everyone laughed. Amma commented that, though it was hot, it was not nearly as intense as the Mother’s Love. Pratyangira Devi continues to surprise all in our group with Her Grace and Love as she continues to personally guide this journey. |
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