| 18, 19, 20 Oct: Badrinath |
 We started early from Rudraprayag to drive to Badrinath. Badrinath, at an elevation of 3,130 meters (10,250 feet), is the abode of Lord Vishnu. Situated in the Nar-Narayan (Man-God) mountain range, Badrinath is one of the most revered Hindu shrines of India. Sri Adi Sankaracharya had, 1200 years ago, consecrated the idol of Lord Vishnu in the temple. The drive is a long one, over 185 KM, over the Himalayan mountains. This drive is particularly difficult compared with the other stretches, because the roads are very steep and narrow, and several long stretches of the road are unpaved or in bad condition. Some of us felt motion sickness during the drive, but fortunately it was not too bad. On the way, we passed the little town of Joshimat (or Jyothirmutt) -- this was the place where Sri Adi Sankaracharya had established a mutt (or monastry). We briefly visited the Narasimha and Vasudeva temples in Joshimat, and spent some time in the house where it is said Sri Adi Sankaracharya used to rest and talk to his disciples. Towards late afternoon, we reached Badrinath. After checking into the hotel, we started for the Badrinath temple. The bazaars leading to the temple were steep, narrow and full of shops selling all kinds of puja items. The temple town of Badrinath is very close to the Tibet border, and the influence of Tibetan culture was evident in the temple architecture and in the display of the wares in the shops. As we passed through the outer entrance of the temple, we noticed a hot springs pool, and people were bathing in it. Called Tapt Kund, this hot water with sulpher and other mineral content is said to be very healing.  The temple was full of people who had come to get the blessings of the presiding deity Lord Vishnu. The evening arati and archana was going on when we entered the temple. The rythmatic chanting of the hymns to Lord Vishnu by the temple priests, accompanied by the music was enchanting and immediately seemed to transport us to a different level of consciousness. Inside the sanctum sanctorium is the black granite idol of Lord Vishnu, fully decked. Amma stood in a corner in the temple and almost immediately began going into a samadhi state. Swamiji and Raghudasa were by her side, helping her gain balance. It is said that Sri Mahavatar Babaji is in the Badrinath temple, that he is a personification of Lord Vishnu. As the lighted arati was offered to Lord Vishnu and passed to each of us by the priest, we took in the blessings. As we stepped to the outer courtyard of the temple, there was a group of pilgrims who were chanting beautiful bhajans. There was a statue of Sri Adi Sankaracharya, along with pictures of several masters who have attained self realization. There were several monks and sadhus with dreadlocks and long beards, people in quest of self realization or people who may have attained it. The atmosphere inside the temple was serene, we all spent some time meditating. We decided to participate in the Abhishek puja in the early morning.We came out of the temple and found an authentic South Indian restaurant. It was a welcome change for Swamiji and Amma and the rest of us as we missed eating Idly and Dosa for several weeks, and so we all ate heartily. A cow seemed to be following Swamiji and Amma, looking to be fed, they heartily attended to it.  After catching a few hours of sleep, we started off to the temple at 3:30 AM. The weather was freezing cold, and we had to cover ourselves in several layers of clothing. As we entered the Temple complex, there were a few sadhus taking a dip in the Tapt Kund, the hot water springs. We got into the pool ourselves. The water was very hot, but we were able to get into the water without too much discomfort. It was a welcome relief from the cold weather. Standing neck deep in the water, we meditated for a while before getting dressed to go into the temple.We meditated for some time near the Adi Sankaracharya statue. A sadhu who was sitting close to the statue immediately recognized Swamiji and Amma for who they were and blessed them on their path. Soon it was time to assemble for the abhishek puja, in which about 60 people were participating. All of us were brought into the inside of the temple. At first it was difficult to find a place to sit and Amma was distraught by the seemingly unaccomodating crowd. The main priest, recognizing that she had come from far, made a special place for her. The abhishek puja was indeed special with the priests chanting several vedic hymns. Swamiji and Amma offered flowers to the deity, and read the names and prayers of all people who had sent in their prayers. We all felt touched by the high energies in the temple  Later in the day we came back to the temple to collect the prasad from the puja. This prasad would be sent to all the people who are participating in the pujas. We all then drove to Mana, the last Indian village near the India - Tibet border. The people of the village lead a simple and sometimes difficult life. Some of them were selling wollen clothing for the cold weather. Swamiji found a sweater that was the right size for him, and purchased it right away. We then trekked some distance and arrived at the source of the river Saraswati. It is quite a sight to behold. Raging fiercely from the mountain ranges, the waters are turquoise in color. It is here that the great sage Veda Vyas is said to have written the great Indian mythology Mahabharata, and the Vedas. It is said that he was getting disturbed by the ferocity of the Saraswati river, and asked her to be calmer, at which point She (the river) went underground. This underground Saraswati river then merges with Ganga and Yamuna rivers in Allahabad at the Triveni Sangam.  Amalananda and Raghudasa went down the steep banks of the Saraswati, and collected some water. Later we all went to the cave in which the sage Veda Vyas is said to have meditated and written all the classics. It was serenely peaceful inside the cave, and we could feel the beautiful vibrations as we sat down and meditated. Just outside the cave was a small tea shop, with a sign saying that it is the last tea shop of India ! We drank some tea while chatting with a couple of sadhus. We later visited the Ganesh Gufa (cave of Lord Ganesh), in which Lord Ganesh is said to have written the Vedas and Mahabharata as was being astrally relayed to him by Veda Vyas.The next day, on 20th, we started from Badrinath and arrived at Joshimath where we checked into Chardham camps. Later in the evening, we went to the Sankaracharya Mutt (monastry) in Joshimath, one of the four cardinal institutions set up by him. It is a very simple building where the sanctity is upheld very beautifully. We spent some time there and in the Sankaracharya Gufa (cave), where he is said to have attained self realization. Swamiji and Amma placed the prayers of all the people at the feet of Sri Adi Sankaracharya, seeking his blessings. Later we all went back to the camp, to prepare ourselves for the journey the next day to Dwarahat, the place of Sri Mahavatar Babaji.  |
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